If stones could speak

Off to the Western Isles for our annual trip, we made our way up to the furthest tip to see if that rarest of migrants, the red-necked phalarope had arrived at Loch na Muilne ( Blog 3rd June 2014).
We were too early. The summer visitors hadn't arrived so we contented ourselves with a walk over the Ness machair in search of some ancient stones. We had done the famous Callanish stones and their satellite groups many times but there are stones with stories all over the island.

We were also too early to see the machair at its finest with the carpets of wild flowers that come later in the summer but the sun was shining and the views were magnificent so we set out, with some guidance from archaeologist Chris Barrowman at Comunn Eachdraidh Nis, to find Clach na Gruagaich - The Maiden's Stone and Clach na Fala - the Blood Stone.

Clach na Fala - The Blood Stone

Clach na Gruagaich is now recumbent and in pieces but at one time probably stood erect.

The maiden in question was a fairy, a magical creature. People would leave liquid offerings of milk or whisky in the depression on the stone to ensure the well-being of their animals or for a good harvest.

Clach na Gruagaich

The place for libations

Passing a souterrain discovered by the army in 1944 when building a look-out post and yet to be fully excavated, we headed out towards the shore and found Clach na Fala which has a much more gruesome tale. 

The Blood Stone is where the chief of the Morrisons, the dominant clan in the area who had the title of Breve or law officer conferred by the Lord of the Isles, would order the execution of offenders. More often or not, these were Macaulays from Uig, sworn enemies of the Morrisons.

The red colour of the stone is said to be from the blood spilled there.

Dun Carloway Broch

Inside the walls

Later that day, we passed the Broch at Dun Carloway where the Macaulays turned the tables on their neighbours. They caught some Morrisons stealing cattle and, when the latter took refuge in the famous tower, Donald Cam Macaulay climbed the wall to drop in burning heather and smoke them out to meet their fate.

Teampull Pheadair

Further over the machair we came upon Teampull Pheadair - Peter's Chapel, an early mediaeval or even dark age, chapel with its rows of unhewn stone grave markers, headers and footers.

 Like all such early Christian sites it stood beside a stream with a deep pool for instant baptism of the converted.

Back in the village, at the local museum and family history archive, there was another reminder of the times when the Celtic church was merging with the pagan beliefs that had erected and cherished the stones and their meanings.

The Rona Cross is a rough-hewn cross from the island of North Rona with three holes in it and the outline of an obviously naked man superimposed.

So, no phalaropes but a journey back to the dark ages. All in all a good day out.

Wonderful views