Sunday 20 March 2016

"...the chapel fair of Tillmouth upon Tweed" *

* Marmion Canto VI
   Scott


The medieval Twizel Bridge over the Till

Today,  the 20th March is the day St Cuthbert is reputed to have died in 687 on Lindisfarne.

After walking the St Cuthbert's Way last year, (Blogs 15/5/2015 to 23/07/2105), I am easily lured by any place with the saint's name attached and there are so many to choose from. The number of chapels and sites where his body is said to have rested on his travels around what is now Northumberland, Yorkshire, Lancashire and Southern Scotland numbers at least fifty, not counting his final resting place at Durham.
When the Viking raiders attacked Lindisfarne two hundred years after his demise, the monks exhumed the body which was said to be uncorrupted, evidence of his sainthood.
They set off to carry it to safety and for the next seven years journeyed around the kingdom of Northumbria as it then was – as far north as Mailros (Melrose) where Cuthbert had first become a monk, as far west as Whithorn where his mentor Aidan had studied and as far south as Ripon, the monastery of his contemporary, St Wilfred.
Later examination of the remains of the saint suggest the body had been mummified.
The extent and duration of the travels throughout the land suggest another purpose for the journey of the saintly corpse than merely to escape the depredations of the Norsemen.
 A cult figure in his lifetime and a venerated saint afterwards, he served as a symbol to rally the, by then Christian, peoples of the kingdom of Northumbria against the pagan Norse.

Where the River Till joins the Tweed stands St Cuthbert's chapel.


St Cuthbert's Chapel, Tillmouth


What is there today is an eighteenth century folly but it stands on the site of the medieval village of Tillmouth. The village is long gone save for a few crop marks seen on aerial photos but there was a chapel of St Cuthbert here in 1311 and legend has it that his remains were floated in a stone coffin down the Tweed from Melrose and came to rest at Tillmouth


An extract from Hutchison's 1823 edition of  HISTORY & ANTIQUITIES OF THE COUNTY PALATINE OF DURHAM  reads

On a peninsula formed by the confluence of the rivers Till and Tweed, was an ancient chapel, on the side of which, about five years ago, (1794) Sir Francis Blake built a small chapel; the windows of which some wanton and sacrilegious villains have lately destroyed. About thirty yards to the west of this place, and fifteen from the Tweed, lie the remains of a stone boat or coffin, in which, tradition says, the body of St. Cuthbert was miraculously conveyed down the Tweed from Mailross. By some hydrostatical experiments whilst it was entire, we are informed it was proved that it might float with the remains of the saint *.
 Mr Gough, in his Additions to Camden, says, that it " is a stone boat, of as fine in shape as a boat of wood." We confess we did not examine the parts so narrowly, being prejudiced with the idea, that they were the mere fragments of a stone coffin. The dimensions of the present remains of the boat are— 
In the inside, length 5' 0"  Breadth at top 2' 0'' Do. broadest part 3' 2''. (One end is broken off, and has been taken away.)Do. where broken off. 3' 0'' Height of the sides 1' 3''|Thickness of sides and bottom 0'4'' 
* From this data, it is probable, that the outside length of the boat when entire,was nine feet three inches—its mean outside breadth three feet three inches—the height one foot nine inches—and the circumference twenty one feet. From thence, it is calculated, that it contained nearly twenty cubic feet uf solid stone, which, by reckoning the specific gravity of freestone, 2,5. it would weigh 31251b. and its outside dimensions would displace 52,6. cubic feet of water, which. at 62lb. and a half to a cubic foot, would be 32871b.—therefore, from 32871b.weight of water displaced, take 31251b. weight of boat, leaving 1621b. for  the boat to carry, which is equal to that of a man near twelve stone weight. 

So it seems that the saint in his stone coffin could have floated down the Tweed ! 

 There is another legend that a local farmer took the broken stone coffin away to use to salt pork. Now that sounds genuine!
The spot where the Tweed receives the Till, its only English tributary, is peaceful and even if the legend is untrue, it didn't detract from the enjoyment of watching goosanders fishing in the junction of the waters.
Goosander

Goosander ducks and drakes at the rivers' junction

On the way home, I remembered the stone coffin in the ruins of the 14th century Priory in our village and went to measure it
Stone coffin at local Priory
It is about the same size.  I wonder if  Historic Scotland would let me see if it floats?

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