St Cuthbert's Way Part VII

The last lap. Across the Pilgrim's Path to Holy Island.

Before crossing the A1, a slight diversion to Grizel's Clump. In 1685, Grizel Cochrane, disguised herself as a man to hold up the mail coach and steal the order for the execution of her father. The delay this caused allowed time for his appeal and subsequent pardon. A group of trees still marks the spot of her daring exploit.

After checking the crossing times, I set out across the wet sands to Holy Island, following in the footsteps of thousands of previous walkers.

The Way

Solitary, evocative, enigmatic

Ahead of me was one who had decided to make a real pilgrimage as the bare footprints on the freezing cold wet mud showed.

Pilgrim's footprints

There is a tranquillity about the crossing that cannot be had on the busy, car-carrying causeway. The wind, the cries of the gulls, the flap of a heron's wings, all add to the atmosphere. The crooning and lowing of the crowds of seals at the tidal margin was especially evocative given St Cuthbert's legendary affinity with "the creatures of the sea".

Bamburgh Castle on the horizon

By contrast, Holy Island itself is a disappointment with crowds of people milling about all seeking something but, it would seem, not knowing what that thing is. 

A couple of fellow walkers who were staying on the island were looking forward to the turn of the tide when all the cars and buses would have to leave and they and the locals could have the place to themselves.

Meadow salsify seedhead seen beside the path

Journey over, a pleasant walk through Borders country, both sides, and through Borders history.

I think I get a certificate... I'll certainly buy a badge for the sun hat!