LotH was battling with the soft furnishing departments of the Edinburgh stores so I withdrew and took the opportunity to visit a place I had always meant to go but, because it is so easy to reach, had never done so.
Hailes Castle in East Lothian |
Hailes Castle was
the home of the Dalrymple family so, when David Dalrymple purchased
the Palladian mansion near Musselburgh from its architect, James Smith, it became New
Hailes and, eventually, Newhailes.
It typified the move
of the Scottish aristocracy from the tough defenders of embattled
strongholds against both local and cross-border attackers in various
combinations and alliances, to cultivated men of educated tastes and
interests.
Newhailes |
The Union of the Parliaments and the creation of Great
Britain in 1707 created a peaceful environment for learning to flourish and
led on to the phenomenon of the Scottish Enlightenment
In Scotland, the
wide base of literacy, and a collaborative spirit among the key
thinkers of the day, meant that when world class philosophers
emerged, their ideas were taken on board, developed, and - most
importantly - applied by others whose interests ranged from economics
through medicine, engineering, geology, law, archeology, physics,
chemistry, biology, history and more. The result was astonishing and
has since been described as the greatest outpouring of intellectual
and scientific accomplishment seen in any nation at any time in
history.
New Hailes and
David Dalrymple, the 3rd Baronet were part of this great
interaction of enquiring minds. The library with its huge collection
of books was described by Samuel Johson as “the most learned
drawing room in Europe”
The Library now denuded of books |
The gardens and
grounds were designed to stimulate the senses with outstanding views
and specific features added such as the grotto which was associated with
thought and contemplation. The poet and satirist, Alexander Pope,
had a grotto dug at his Palladian villa in Twickenham.
The Shell Grotto |
A more mundane
tunnel was excavated at Newhailes to allow servants access to the
house from their separate quarters without the upper classes having their contemplation spoiled by the coming and going of the lower orders!
The walkways and viewpoints are
still there but the hoi polloi now have the freedom to roam the
paths and the views have been somewhat marred by the march of
progress.
The chimneys of Cockenzie power station providing a different sort of enlightenment for the masses |
The spread of ideas
from the philosophic to the practical with the work of Hutton in
geology: Black in chemistry and physics: Cullen in medicine,
chemistry and agriculture: Watt in steam engineering: Murdoch in gas
lighting; Walker in natural history, resulted in changes in society
that those who inspired them could never have foreseen.
The windows of the
great library, and many others in the house are now blind, mainly as a
result of internal alterations. Somehow they seem symbolic of the
intellectual blindness that followed that most glorious time when the
Enlightenment finally succumbed to religiosity and romanticism.
Blind windows |
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