Monday, 6 April 2015

Where eagles dared



Dark Ruberslaw, that lifts his head sublime,
Rugged and hoary with the wrecks of time!
On his broad misty front the giant wears
The horrid furrows of ten thousand years;
His aged brows are crowned with curling fern,
Where perches, grave and lone, the hooded Erne,
Majestic bird! by ancient shepherds stiled
The lonely hermit of the russet wild,
That loves amid the stormy blast to soar,
When through disjointed cliffs the tempests roar,
Climbs on strong wing the storm, and, screaming high,
Rides the dim rack, that sweeps the darkened sky. 

 (John Leyden 1775-1811)

Despite its relative lack of height, at 424 metres, Ruberslaw dominates the landscape of the Teviot valley and would have been the obvious place for a tribal chief to set his fort or oppidum. A climb to the top affords great views of the eastern marches across to the coast including Ruberslaw's greater neighbours, the Eildons, the triple peaked Trimontium of the Romans. 
The hill was used as a signalling station by the legions having been the seat of some Iron Age chiefs before their arrival.

 The view to the coast

At the top, the outlines of the rampart and ditch can still be seen although the dramatic cleft known as Pedden's Pulpit from its association with the Covenanter preacher, Alexander Pedden, is the result of ancient volcanic forces rather than human design.

Pedden's Pulpit
 
The trig point, now no longer needed for map making has a been re-used with a marker disc showing all the features of the surrounding landscape and a few further afield such as Zanzibar and Mongolia!




The single pair of peewets calling across the hillside was a sad echo of the scores that screamed and sky-wheeled over the pastures of my childhood. A pair of skylarks seemed oddly trusting of my approach. The orientalist, John Leyden, born in Denholm in view of the hill, wrote of the “erne” or eagle perched on “dark Ruberslaw”.

Today, a different sort of bird was soaring from the peak. Hang gliders have replaced the long gone eagles, harried to extinction in this sheep rearing country.




An old friend always meant to climb Ruberslaw and just never got round to it. That chance has gone now so today was a walk for her.
Carpe diem....but dare I try hang gliding?



Wednesday, 1 April 2015

The Glen of Weeping



Up to Auld Reekie to visit the National Library exhibition “Game of Crowns” about the struggle for the throne between the House of Orange and the House of Stuart.


 After the invasion of England by William of Orange with the complicity of the Protestant Lords and the deposing of the Catholic James VI in favour of his Protestant sister, Mary, wife of William, those loyal to James and the Stuarts, the Jacobites, became involved in a civil war.
This culminated in the 1715 rising and only finished with the defeat of James' grandson, Charles Edward Stuart at Culloden in 1746.
Many of the Highland clans maintained their allegiance to the Stuarts and suffered in the process, mostly, it must be said at the hands of their fellow Scots.
None more so than the MacIans of Glencoe, a sept of the Macdonalds. The story of the massacre in 1692 is almost universally known and has been recounted in verse and song as well as captured on canvas and recreated in film and drama.

The memorial to the victims
What started as a punishment meted out to people probably regarded by William, if he gave them any thought at all, as savages, so stirred the nation's conscience that the charge of “murder under trust”, a most heinous crime, was brought against the perpetrators.
No-one was ever convicted. Not surprisingly as the order was signed by William himself! He probably didn't give it a moments thought … just another paper to sign. The real culprits were the Lowland Scots especially John Dalrymple, Master of Stair who disliked Highland clans in general and his Campbell accomplices who saw a chance of exacting revenge on their age old enemies, the Macdonalds.



It is quite chilling to see the original hand written document ordering the massacre.

You can't visit Glencoe without feeling the impact of the events even after three hundred years. The mountains seem to hold the memory.

Clouds rising from Aonach Eagach


Here the crow starves, here the patient stag
Breeds for the rifle. Between the soft moor
And the soft sky, scarcely room
To leap or soar. Substance crumbles, in the thin air
Moon cold or moon hot. The road winds in
Listlessness of ancient war,
Langour of broken steel,
Clamour of confused wrong, apt
In silence. Memory is strong
Beyond the bone. Pride snapped,
Shadow of pride is long, in the long pass
No concurrence of bone 
 (T.S. Eliot)

Meall Mor

I'll be back there this summer, still some hills to climb and the Hidden Valley beckons before I am too old.